Vitamin C Serum Guide

The brightest ingredient in skincare. But not all Vitamin C is created equal.

Why Vitamin C?

Types of Vitamin C

L-Ascorbic Acid (Pure Vitamin C)

Most studied and effective form. Use 15-20%. Unstable — oxidizes when exposed to light, air, and heat. Look for opaque or dark packaging.

pH requirement: Below 3.5 for penetration. This is why it can sting.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)

Stable derivative. Gentler, less irritating. Converts to L-ascorbic acid in skin. Good for sensitive skin. Use 5-10%.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD Ascorbate)

Oil-soluble derivative. Penetrates deeper into skin. Very stable. Works at higher pH (less irritation). Premium formulations use this.

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Stable, gentle, water-soluble. Converts slowly to active form. Good entry point for sensitive skin.

💡 How to tell if your Vitamin C has oxidized: It turns yellow, then orange, then brown. If it is dark yellow/brown, it is no longer effective and may actually harm your skin. Toss it.

How to Use Vitamin C

Vitamin C Compatibility

Products

TruSkin Vitamin C Serum

15% L-ascorbic acid + Vitamin E + HA. Best-selling, best value.

$18-22

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Skinceuticals C E Ferulic

The gold standard. 15% L-ascorbic acid + 1% Vitamin E + 0.5% ferulic acid. Clinically proven.

$166-182

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Mad Hippie Vitamin C Serum

SAP-based. Gentle, stable, great for sensitive skin.

$28-34

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The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 23%

Pure L-ascorbic acid powder in silicone-free base. Strong but gritty texture.

$6-8

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